Five popular facials that could damage your skin

Make sure you do your research before trying anything new. (Photo: Getty / iStockphoto)

Skin care is booming right now.

From acids to exfoliators, to peels to injectables, a lot of us put more effort into our beauty regimes, and we try a lot of new things.

Every new beauty trend is exciting and innovative when it hits the scene. They promise radiance, prolonged youth, inner radiance.

But before we rush off to spend our hard earned money on the latest skin care trends in the market, have you considered if they are actually good for your skin? Could they do damage?

Many of us are looking for quick fixes or instant results when it comes to facials, but this mindset could do more harm than good.

Dermoi Scientific Director Eve Casha reviewed the best facials on the market to shed light on popular treatments that can actually harm the skin and accelerate photoaging in the long run:

Deep micro-needling

“Microneedling is a newer treatment that involves creating microchannels (small holes) in the skin to stimulate wound healing responses, collagen production and increase penetration of topical products,” explains Eve.

When done correctly, Eve claims that micro-needle treatments have been shown to be very effective with minimal disruption of the skin barrier.

“However, many micro-needling treatments involve aggressive movements and micro-needling devices with long needles,” she says. “It causes skin trauma and has been shown to cause facial scarring (scarring of tram tracks), pigmentation problems (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) or infection.

“A credible source for micro-needle treatments in which the depth and procedure of the micro-needle is controlled is essential. ”

Dermaplaning

This beauty treatment is a recent viral trend that involves scraping the skin with a blade to exfoliate it – and removing fine hairs (peach fuzz) for an instantly smooth finish.

“However, there is little scientific evidence to support dermaplaning for any skin benefit,” says Eve.

“In addition, this treatment is standardized for home and consistent use, but repeated use can negatively impact the skin barrier, leaving the skin sensitive to UV rays, free radical damage, inflammation. and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. ”

Medium depth facial peels

“Chemical peels induce deep exfoliation to stimulate cell renewal and facial rejuvenation,” explains Eve.

“They are classified according to the depth to which they exfoliate the skin and have been used for decades.”

Eve says superficial facial peels exfoliate the epidermis, however, medium and deep facial peels exfoliate down to the dermis.

“Medium-deep facial peels damage skin proteins as well as cell death, swelling, and severe epidermal damage,” says Eve.

“They require extended ‘downtime’ after treatment during which consumers cannot go to work, have to protect themselves from the sun and are at risk of infection.

“These peels should be done as one-off procedures, but many are looking for medium-depth treatments that regularly cause repeated trauma to healthy skin.”

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion is a non-invasive physical exfoliation procedure that removes the skin barrier.

“The treatment can slightly help smooth the texture of the skin’s surface, hyperpigmentation and stimulate changes in collagen production after multiple sessions,” says Eve. “However, microdermabrasion is very abrasive and causes massive disruption of the skin barrier.

“This leaves the skin in a compromised state which is inflamed and more vulnerable to damage from environmental free radicals and UV rays. This will worsen skin conditions and may increase photoaging over time.

“Some microdermabrasion studies will exclude clients with sensitive skin types or prone to scarring because they are at higher risk of complications. ”

Hydrafacial

Hydrafacials use a technique called hydradermabrasion.

“In the Hydrafacial procedure, hydradermabrasion is combined with a chemical peel serum, followed by pressure extraction, and a serum rich in antioxidants,” explains Eve.

“While hydradermabrasion is milder than traditional microdermabrasion and can remove comedones (whiteheads / blackheads) and stimulate collagen production, the technique itself disrupts the skin barrier and is likely to be sensitizing for many. .

“For people with inflammatory acne, rosacea, or general sensitivity, this abrasion and extraction can increase the problems.”

So what should we be doing for our skin instead?

“While some may look at the complications of some facial treatments and assume the risk is low, over time repeated use of such treatments injures the skin and worsens skin conditions,” says Eve.

“We need to relearn our approach to skin care and change the way we take care of our skin. “

Researching all procedures and estheticians in advance is a must, and sometimes less is more when it comes to taking care of your skin.

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